Archive for the ‘travel’ Category

Beersurfing Does Calgary – Part Two

August 2nd, 2009

After our last post from Calgary,  Beersurfing took a day off to go climbing in the Canadian Rockies. Afterwards, we headed back into Calgary to check out 1600 World Bier Haus, a fabled land of beer that has, as the name might imply, quite a selection to choose from.  1600 is actually the address of the bar, but their selection certainly didn’t disappoint.  I got loaded pretty quickly on two large pints of Erdinger Dunkel, a fine dark beer that tasted like a sweet version of Guinness.  I finished the night off with a Traditional Ale, brewed in Calgary by the Big Rock Brewery.  It wasn’t bad, but didn’t really stand out from the other Canadian beers I tried – sweet, tasty, palatable, but still ordinary.  Calgary, all of your beer tastes the same!  1600 World Bier Haus was a friendly place to find unique beers and I would definitely come here again – the food was superb, strange beer flows like water, live music permeated the room, and best of all, the chicken wings on Sundays were 15 cents a piece!  What more could a Beersurfer want? 1600 World Bier Haus, you made my trip.

I had reserved my final day in Calgary to participate in the shenanigans occurring at the Calgary Stampede, but alas, Calgary got half an inch of rain that day and it was, for all intents and purposes, rained out.  Never fear, though, for this just meant that the drinking moved indoors. My Canadian friends were determined to send me off with a belly full of Canadian beer, so I met up with them at the Seanachie Irish Pub in West Hills. The place was pretty popular – the crowd was standing room only, but we were lucky to walk in and find a table just as it was being cleared.  Fortunately, we weren’t here to relax and chill out – the chicken wings here were 10 cents a piece, and litre schooners of Molson Canadian were something like $5. You read that right – during happy hour, you can get an entire litre of beer (that’s over 2 pints for the non-metric folks) for about CAD$5. Sure, it’s Molson, but where else can you get Molson Canadian straight from the source?  I had two, and felt surprisingly lucid afterwards.  Thank you, newfound Canadian friends, for a proper Beersurfing send-off! I’ll return the favor if you ever find yourselves in Phoenix.

And that’s a wrap for Calgary; the beer was worth the trip, although I’ll defnitely be flying next time.  Alberta, you sure know how to show a beer drinker a good time!

Beersurfing fa Roma – Part Two

July 20th, 2009

As we walked into the Piazza Triluso on the shore of the Tiber, our spirits buoyed by a celebratory bottle of prosecco, the convivial atmosphere was striking. Unlike the sullen faces to be found in touristy districts, here the broad, welcoming smile so typical of Italy prevailed. While you can still find many menus in this area printed in English as well as Italian, the target audience is the student body of the nearby American University, not the tourist hordes of the Colosseum.


The summer crowd was mostly Roman youths enjoying a beautiful Saturday night in their home city. Groups congregated on steps, along railings, and by nearly every other surface that could serve as a seat. Other groups stood about bar entrances on narrow side streets. Italy does not have any open-bottle laws; even out in the piazza many people held cups of mojito or beer.


We headed into this vibrant mass of humanity on a quixotic search for good Italian brews, comfortable surroundings, and good conversation. And sometimes, just sometimes… the gods smile upon you. We immediately happened upon a true beer bar, and a Roman oupost of Italy’s burgeoning craft beer movement: Ma Che Siete Venuti A . The owner, Manuele, allows only beer and the occasional glass of water to be served in his cosy football pub. I think that bears repeating: no food, no snacks, no soda – just beer. Although the air buzzed with melodious Italian and the wood-paneled walls and ceilings cried British pub, the taps were many and eclectic. The proprietor takes great pride in maintaining a dynamic selection of craft beers (of Belgian, American and Italian origin on this night). Beyond the selection, the care taken in pouring and serving the beer was astounding. Manuele demonstrated his passion for beer, customizing the presentation based on the particular flavor profile and mouthfeel of the individual beer. Glasses were selected to suit each style, as was the pouring speed and head size. For instance, he prefers to take up to eight minutes dispensing some types of beers such as Blanche de Namur. This refines the carbonation and leads to an optimized mouth feel and nose. Other beers, such as IPAs, are poured in a rapid two to three minutes to preserve their carbonation’s intensity. He also carefully tailored the size of the head through both pouring technique and a flat blade used to remove excess head from certain fast-pour beers. As his personal bio states, “To ask him a beer without froth is like to tell Bush you have petrol, he suddenly comes to fuck you.”[sic]


We began talking to Manuele about his establishment, and about his Italian beers in particular. Although we had started off the evening with a pint of the powerful American IPA “Hercules” by Great Divide as a reference point, he followed it quickly with a tasting of the Italian IPA, “ReAle Extra” by Del Borgo brewery. The contrast was stark, with the American IPA typically powerful in malt, hops and alcohol: it was a huge beer. The Italian version, while still undeniably an IPA, was far more subtle. It managed to strike a delicate balance between malt sweetness and hop kick. A harbinger of things to come, its promise of perfectly balanced beers was borne out over and over again. Owing to its cask conditioning, it had a delicate and fine mouthfeel that just managed to temper and complement the rather thick and creamy body of the beer. I was amazed at the quality and artistic tuning of this beer’s flavor profile.


Next, we sampled an Italian-brewed Pilsner, “TipoPils” by Birrificio Italiano. The refined balance of the beer shone through, despite the understated flavor. In typical Pilsner style, it was light and refreshing, unencumbered by the darker malts of an IPA. Hints of hops and delicate, cask-conditioned carbonation rounded out an excellent beer. By this point, my preconceived notions of bland, mass-market Italian beer had been thoroughly trashed, but the spectacle had only begun.

Beersurfing fa Roma – Part One

July 13th, 2009

We arrived in Rome at 6AM local time, and were immediately cast into the great chaos that passes for a transportation system here. As any accomplished beersurfer knows, public transit is often the key to a great surfing experience. Not needing to drive frees you to explore far more beers, and get to know the locals even better! Fortunately, despite its idiosyncrasies, Rome has an extensive transit network.

After establishing a base of operations, we set out for the medieval district of Rome along the Tiber river. The bar scene here is fantastic all year, and better still in the summer. The entire area of Trastevere is packed with bars, and the narrow, cobbled streets are crowded with young Romans drinking, smoking and chatting with their friends well into the morning hours. Layered onto this in July and August is the summer river-bar scene. For those two months, may pubs from all around Rome close up their normal locations and set up shop along the banks of the Tiber.

I never sleep on planes, so despite a night flight, I arrived in Trastevere at 32 hours without sleep. The surreality of walking ancient streets amidst gothic cathedrals at 1 AM only added to my sense of a waking dream. The Roman women are beautiful, and even casual outings call for high fashion.

Despite the wonderful surroundings, my hopes for good Italian beer never got too high – Peroni is utterly dominant in the Italian market, in my experience. A typical bar here has 2-3 beers on tap, usually Peroni, Guinness and a cheap import like Miller. Historically, Italians have concerned themselves with wine far more than beer, a fact readily apparent in the quality of beer made here.

Yet, my good fortune brought me to two beer bars owned by a legitimate Italian beer enthusiast. True standouts, I would put them up against the best beer bars of any place I have ever been!

Stay tuned for a run-down of the bars, a local brewmaster, and more Italian craft beers than I could enjoy sober!

Beersurfing Does Calgary – Part One

July 9th, 2009

Given that last weekend contained the American Independence Day, most US citizens had either Friday or Monday off from work. The Dude is one such citizen, and decided to celebrate by leaving the United States for the weekend to visit Phoenix’s sister city in our neighbor to the North – Calgary! After a grueling 27 hour drive from Phoenix (long story), Beersurfing made it to Calgary, Canada, to check out the local beer scene and get away for a much needed vacation. Naturally, the first order of business was to find a local pub, find a local beer, and tell all of you about it!

On the list for Night #1 was The Point and Feather Neighborhood Pub, which is the perfect crawling distance from where I was staying for the first couple of days.  After walking in, I was hit with a calm and decidedly local atmosphere.  For some reason, all of the waitresses were wearing cowboy hats, a fact that was confusing at first but cleared up when I discovered I arrived just in time for Calgary’s annual Stampede.  Anyways, as I was very tired after the drive, I limited myself to food and a single pint of beer.  A couple of the locals suggested Rickard’s White Ale, a wheat ale which almost passes as a hefeveisen in these parts.  Since it didn’t appear to actually BE a hefeveisen, I questioned why our lovely waitress had tossed in a slice of orange, which I almost always remove from my beers.  Without the orange, the beer tasted quite stale and was nothing to write home about.  However, the orange juice really added to the flavor of the beer… ok, it changed it dramatically, for the better.  I nearly ordered another, but sensibility got the best of me after I was reminded how unbelievably tired I was after the aforementioned drive.  The price was right though (about CAD$5 for a pint), and I noted it as one of the first fine beers that I had the honor of sampling in Calgary.

After sleeping for a long and relaxing 12 hours, I headed out with my travelling buddies and one of their local friends to Brewster’s Brewing Company in the southwest district of Calgary.  The overall ambiance of Brewster’s was nice and quiet, but ornate.  Wooden tables filled the room and the staff was very friendly. Quickly realizing that one beer per pub would not make this already great trip awesome enough, I ordered a sampler tray of 5 seemingly random Canadian beers:

  1. Hammerhead Red Ale – a VERY tasty beer! Not strong, kind of bitter, but loaded with flavor.  This one was my favorite.
  2. Bow Valley Brown Ale – a chocolate stout.  I’m not a big fan of stout, though this one was pretty good as far as they go.  This one was best downed quickly to move on to other tasty treasures.
  3. Gunther’s Hefeveisen – Bananas!  Cloves! It’s… a hefeveisen!  Not awful, but I’ve definitely had better
  4. Flying Frog – I don’t remember much about this one, other than it was tasty.  It sure didn’t taste like a flying frog
  5. Wild West Wheat Ale – this tasted like the many “white” beers I had in Canada, and was par for the course as far as white’s go.  Much like the Rickard’s I had the night prior, it was dull at worst and stale at best, even with the fruit tossed into the mix.

My one regret on this trip was that I did not find more Hammerhead Red, which also had the added bonus of being cheap on this particular outing.  Paying homage to the beer gods, I ordered another pint and enjoyed it, slowly and tastily.  Mmmmmm, Hammerhead.  A++, would drink again!

After our outing at Brewster’s, we went off to find a local beverage store to sample more of Canada’s finest beers privately, in the comfort of one’s basement.  We quickly located Willow Park, which may as well have been a candy store for beer drinkers.  Here, I was presented with the many beers of Canada (though by no means the finest) in one single aisle of the store.  I admit, Willow was far prouder of its wine selection than its beer, but I was still impressed.  Here, I picked up a Sleeman Brewery‘s variety pack of beers.  On this night, I was only privy to one flavor of this pack – Sleeman’s Cream Ale – which was fairly tasty and anything but creamy.  The basement outing was cut fairly short, and we spent the rest of the day exploring one of Alberta’s provincial parks outside of Calgary.

Other than that, the night was pretty quiet.  We stopped at a party later on and were provided with a can (eww) of Big Rock Brewery‘s Big Rock Lime Lager.  I won’t sugarcoat this one – it tasted worse than Bud Light with Lime, and tasted marginally better after we added actual lime juice.  I’m convinced there was more alcohol in the lime juice.

So far, I was enjoying the atmosphere of Calgary more than the beer itself – not only was everybody much happier, it was NICE outside!  Clouds!  Wind! Rain!  Cool air!  All things that Phoenix lacked!  I checked the weather – by the time I went to sleep at 1AM, it was still 100+ degrees (F) in Phoenix. Despite missing out on the American 4th of July, I was having a good time.  I even saw some fireworks (although, admittedly, the blue was missing from the otherwise red and white Canadian light show.  When in Rome…).  In our next series, we take a brief one day hiatus to explore nature, and I get a memorable send-off from a Canadian-Irish pub.